Maurice Graham Henry on French restaurants in New York
2009 we congratulated Chef Daniel Boulud and his second-to-none staff on
having the coveted four-star restaurant rating reaffirmed by the New York
Times. Now we are pleased to offer our congratulations again, for Restaurant
Daniel has now received its third Michelin star. Nevertheless, our firm
belief is that the the very best restaurant in New York continues to be Per
Se, Chef Thomas Keller's "American with French influences" masterpiece on
the fourth floor of the Time Warner Center. Now led by Chef de Cuisine Eli
Kaimeh, the restaurant keeps getting better and better. Perhaps the most
exciting news in 2010 is that David Bouley is back in the kitchen on a
regular basis at his New York flagship on Duane Street. taking the
restaurant in exciting new directions. Indeed, two of the very best meal I had in the past two years
were at Per Se and the new Bouley with my friend
and fellow restaurant critic Fabrice Chouty.
Maurice Graham Henry
October 30, 2010
The Wandering Epicures enjoy a midsummer July dinner at Le Bernardin
Bernardin has the top ratings in Michelin, Zagat and The New York Times,
which it has held longer than any other restaurant. Kees and Els joined
Linda and me for dinner there the evening of July 31, 2010. We all
enjoyed our meal a lot. The ambience, service, pace etc were just
right. Le Bernardin certainly deserves its ranking as one of the few top
restaurants in New York. 'Prima,' as Els would say."
Daniel is visited by The Wandering Epicures in August 2009
"I do not think that either of us had a dish that was really memorable or
that convinced us that we were at the very top level. None of
them were failures either, although the abalone came close."
Le Bernardin in New York: the Luxeat Perspective
"I thought I should give a second chance to this 3 Michelin stars
seafood restaurant, even if my first time there was very disappointing.
I told to myself I would choose other dishes which would prove my
initial judgments were wrong. Unfortunately, after my dinner in Le
Bernardin last Friday, I stand for every word I said about this
restaurant before. Le Bernardin would never get even 2 Michelin stars if
it were located in France."
Se: the review by Francis Bown
"There is no question that Thomas Keller is one of the most talented
Chefs in the world, nor that his restaurant in the Napa Valley, The French
Laundry, is one of the world’s best. But star Chefs have been known to
spread their talents too thinly. As I clambered out of the yellow cab on
Columbus Circle, I feared that his new venture – Per Se, in far away New
York – might not maintain the standards of the Californian original.
Friends, I need not have worried. Per Se is, without doubt, one of the
finest restaurants in the world."
Maurice Graham Henry reviews Jean Georges
"I am pleased to confirm
that yes, the ultimate '12' rating of this restaurant (the combined
total of 3 Michelin stars, 4 stars from The New York Times, and 5 stars
from the Mobil Travel Guide) is indeed well deserved. A total rating shared only with
Thomas Keller's per se across the street, it should only be
attained by those who consistently produce excellent to extraordinary
cooking in New York, French or otherwise. Jean Georges meets that