January 2007
Because of the extravagance, it’s
not often I recommend hopping on a plane for a
good dinner. In the case of Michel Bras in the hills above Lake Toya
in Hokkaido,
however, a weekend trip is well worth it.
Our epicurean voyage began with a 90-minute airplane ride from
Tokyo’s Haneda
Airport to Chitose Airport in Hokkaido after work on a Friday
evening, followed by a
two-hour drive via deserted highways, sleepy villages and finally
narrow mountain
roads. By the time we arrived at the luxurious – although, with its
twinkling driveway
lights and kill-to-impress cavernous lobby, rather nouveau --Windsor
Toya spa,
home of the restaurant Michel Bras in Japan, we were too exhausted
to eat.
The next day, however, put all qualms about traveling to what seemed
like the ends
of the earth (or at least, to the end of Japan) to rest. We joyfully
woke to scenic Lake
Toya outside our window and the prospect of a wonderful dinner
ahead. In
preparation for our multi-course meal, we lunched on soba and spent
the afternoon
walking the hotel’s extensive grounds. By 7 pm, we were positively
famished and
raring to chew on anything even remotely edible.
Fortunately, the Japanese outlet of this Michelin three-star
restaurant from Laguiole,
France proved an excellent place to replenish our resources –
although another set
of precious resources (in my wallet) was significantly depleted at
the same time.
Michel Bras was simpler than I had expected. The bleached
wood-paneled room
had huge floor-to-ceiling glass windows that probably showcased a
breathtaking
view at lunch, but it offered little visual distractions at night.
White linen-covered
tables topped with displays of flat crackers that might have passed
for artwork were
paired with the kind of wicker chairs found in an Asian spa. The
only concessions to
artsy style were mesh curtains that separated the walkway from the
seating area.
To start, I ordered the “gargouillou” of young vegetables and herbs
(5,460 yen), a
signature dish from France which, in the Hokkaido restaurant, is
slightly revised to
incorporate more local ingredients. This colorful dish is basically
a warm salad
containing at least 30 different kinds of herbs, vegetables and
flowers, (although our
waiter said the number of ingredients sometimes tops 50 depending on
the season
and the Chef’s inclination). My particular salad had a mix of
greens, purple and
orange flowers, a spray of yellow buds, some dark purple stems,
slivers of cucumber,
assorted seeds and ground nuts, and lashings of pesto, red pepper
and mayonnaise
sauces. Here, in this deceptively simple hodge-podge of a dish, you
will appreciate
Monsieur Bras’ true artistry since each piece of vegetable or flower
tastes flavorful
and as fresh as if it is was picked from the mountain slope that
afternoon.
For my main course, I was encouraged to try another classic, beef
slowly roasted in
black truffle juice but, frankly, I was put off by the price (14,700
yen). So I opted for
the pork sausage with parsley (5,670 yen), a more moderate Laguiole
favorite that
has also found its way to Hokkaido, and I was not disappointed.
Although local pork
was substituted for Aubrac pork here, it was meaty and spicy, but
without any of
pork’s usual oiliness. Few people probably order sausage for dinner
at a fancy
restaurant, but I was quite happy to be the maverick that evening.
Finally, being a chocoholic, I had to end my meal with Monsieur
Bras’ famous
chocolate “coulant”, a dessert he created and owns the trademark
for. It is basically
a chocolate cake with slightly crispy crust, that contains hot
melted chocolate that
oozes out when you break your cake with a fork. It’s not unlike
variations you now
find in other fine restaurants, although under different names such
“fondant au
chocolat” because of proprietary issues.
Much has been written about this
dessert and technique, which Monsieur Bras first
unveiled in 1981, and which have since been imitated by others. Many
food writers
have rhapsodized that this coulant has been copied often but never
equaled.
Perhaps it was the pastry Chef’s day off when I dined, but my cake
was dry and the
chocolate that was supposed to ooze out and enthrall me never quite
made it past
the exit. I’ve certainly had better versions in less hallowed
surroundings before.
Otherwise, most of the food was wonderful and the service
exceptional. The staff,
many of whom come from outside Toya, have been well-trained to
anticipate almost
every need so that I had a replacement table napkin on my lap even
before the one I
was actually using had fallen and touched the ground. Details like
these determine
the 2nd or 3rd star, even for ordinary diners like myself. Now if
they would only
improve their chocolate coulant...
WHAT TO EAT
Start with the gargouillou of young vegetables (5460 yen) and order
the slow roasted
beef (14,700 yen) if your budget will allow. Otherwise, the pork
sausage (5,670 yen)
or the roasted breast of chicken (9,870 yen) are perfectly good
alternatives. For
dessert, an assortment of ice creams made from local fruits and
plants (including
strawberries from Toyoura and Japanese knotweed) is refreshing and
interesting.
WHAT TO DRINK
The restaurant has several young and very enthusiastic sommeliers
who will pair
your meal with excellent wines by the glass or bottle.
WHERE TO SIT
This restaurant (and hotel) is in the middle of nowhere but, unless
you book months
in advance, you’ll be lucky to get a seat so be happy wherever they
place you.
HOW MUCH DID IT COST?
At least 60,000 yen per couple for three courses and two glasses of
wine each...
© 2007 Christine Cunanan-Miki.
Used by permission. All rights reserved.
See www.weekenderjapan.com
– Japan's quality English-language magazine.
