Professional
Chefs at the highest level tend to be men. But there are some great lady Chefs.
One of the very greatest is Anne-Sophie Pic-Sinapian. She is part of the famous
Pic dynasty. Her family began to cook for the public in 1891. Her father,
Jacques Pic, was one of the most highly acclaimed Chefs in France. I had the
privilege of eating his food on several occasions, and can testify to his
culinary genius. After his untimely death, the good burghers of Valence did the
right thing: they erected a monument to the man who had drawn gourmets from all
over the world to their town. Now Anne-Sophie has two Michelin stars and
commands the stoves at 285 avenue Victor Hugo. This is the place which all
serious lovers of good food know simply as Pic.
The
Sinapian part of Anne-Sophie’s surname comes from her husband, David, who is the
General Manager of the establishment. For Pic is not only a restaurant; it is
also an hotel of considerable charm and character. Indeed, it is rather like an
oasis of luxury in what is, it must be admitted, not the loveliest urban
landscape in France.
Having manœuvred the Royce into the
underground car park (provided free of charge), I was soon settling into room
number 14. If you like things modern, you will like this air-conditioned
apartment. It has been renovated in what I believe is called ‘the designer
style’. Contemporary prints adorn the walls, and tone in with the colour scheme
of red, black and grey. Spotlights provide the lighting. I was at first
perplexed by the square stone wash basins, for there were no plugs; but it was
interesting to have a shower (there is no bath) surrounded by dark grey slate.
This billet costs 246-286 euros a night, according to season, bed and breakfast
for two.
Down
in the restaurant there were more signs of contemporary taste – in the new
(comfortable) armchairs and in the grey suits of the staff. I felt an air of
appropriate sophistication as I made myself comfortable within walls adorned
with crimson velvet and bleached wood. Napkins were replaced if diners left the
table and the glassware was by Riedel – two reliable signs that high standards
prevail.
Two set menus are available at
dinner: 5 courses at 115 euros and 7 courses at 150 euros. My own 6 course meal
took dishes from both menus. Before they arrived, there came a small miracle.
The amuse-bouche of foie gras crème brûlée was astonishingly good. Its sweetness
and flavour made me long for more, but it was soon on to the first course, a
pretty and refreshing roundel of red, green and yellow tomato with lobster and
aspic. Next was marinated langoustine, roasted with sage and served with an
intriguing hint of coffee.
Sea
bass with caviar followed. I think I have eaten this dish every time I have
visited Pic. It is, in my judgment, one of the great dishes of the world. It has
been lightened since the days of Jacques: the cream sauce now has champagne and
is frothy. The first mouthful continues to be one of the most life-enhancing
moments of restaurant eating. My meat course was rack of lamb – tasty, soft and
tender, although my palate questioned the partnership with anchovies. Finally,
after some fine cheeses (including Époisses and Roquefort), I devoured a
wonderfully architectural pudding of chocolate and red currants.
Food of such quality deserves to be
accompanied by wines of impeccable breeding. Head sommelier Denis Bertrand has
built up a remarkable cellar. It includes 400 offerings from the local Rhône
vineyards – from a 2003 Crozes Hermitage for 45 euros (A.Graillot) to a 1961
Hermitage La Chapelle for 5,000 euros (P.Jaboulet Aîné). Burgundy drinkers also
have their treats, like 1972 Romanée-Conti at 3,200 euros, as do lovers of
claret – with 1953 Haut Brion at 1,070 euros, 1978 Ausone at 580 euros and 1982
Mouton Rothschild at 1,220 euros. From my own Rhône drinking, I would commend to
your notice a blend of syrah and grenache from the Côtes du Vivarais, which was
hot, plummy and tannic (Haute Vigne, Dom. Galetty, 2003).
Before I
trundled away in the Silver Cloud the following morning, I relaxed in the small,
vaulted breakfast room. Here I consumed melon and prosciutto, fruit salad,
brioche, bread and jam, and coffee from a giant cup. This excellent start to the
day put me in mind to be philosophical. But I still could not understand the
rarity of great women Chefs. I resolved that I should simply be thankful for Pic
and for the brilliant Anne-Sophie.
PIC
285 avenue Victor-Hugo, 26001 Valence, France.
Telephone +33 (0) 4 75 44 15 32
Fax +33 (0) 4 75 40 96 03
email:
pic@relaisChâteaux.fr
www.pic-valence.com
Closed: Sunday dinner, Monday
Reservations accepted two months in advance
© 2005 Francis Bown. Used by
permission. All rights reserved. For reviews of hotels and restaurants across the world, visit
www.BownsBest.com
